Cornwall

The August Bank Holiday weekend approached with its usual anticipation of crappy English weather, so it was perfect that our destination for the weekend had a far better forecast. Having arranged to have Friday off as well, this made for a good 4-day long weekend, so it was a reasonably relaxed Friday morning that saw Sheryl and myself having breakfast at one of the cafes at Paddington Station.

Leaving London’s overcast and drizzly day, we trained it across the southern coastal regions of England until we eventually arrived in Penzance. No pirates that we could see, but yes, this is the same Penzance as used in the Gilbert & Sullivan show. The simple pleasure of leaving the train station there and walking out into sunshine and blue skies can never be underestimated. A quick stop in the nearby tourist centre, and we were then soon checking in to the B&B that would house our bags and give us somewhere to sleep over the next few days.

It was then time to take a reasonably relaxed stroll through the town and gathering some supplies for the evening, before boarding a bus bound for the small sea-side village of Porthcurno and the Minack Theatre. Perched up the front on the upper deck of the bus, we travelled westward towards a lowering sun. The late afternoon made for a very picturesque ride through the countryside and small villages giving us some great views from our vantage point.
Once at Porthcurno, it was time for the walk to the theatre. We soon discovered that it was mostly uphill, but also gave us some impressive views of the nearby coastline. The theatre itself was on the other side of this hill and was carved into the side of the cliff as you can probably make out here. Thankfully arriving early gave us some excellent seats and, so we joined many others by having a small dinner (of a bottle of red and Cornish pasties) before the show.
Speaking of the show, well, we’re not too sure about it. It had something to do with farmers and hard lives of the late 1800’s, but we really don’t know if there was some sort of story to it. Not that this really concerned us, because we weren’t there really for the show, but more the location and setting. Whilst the sun set behind us, we had a fantastic view of the coastline and ocean. With a near-full moon rising above the headlands in the distance, and then shimmering across the ocean, it really was impressive. (As you can see - click on the pic for a bigger view).

Saturday morning began with an English breakfast before heading out into the township of Penzance again and onto another bus. This time, our destination was Land’s End with another picturesque coastline and countryside viewing along the way.
Land’s End itself isn’t much. Touristy, yes, and therefore not all that impressive. The views and the area itself, however, is simply stunning. After the obligatory photograph at the famous Land’s End sign it was time to mosey around the area taking in the views and surroundings.
On the subject of the sign, my grandparents had their photograph at this sign back in 1966. I had a copy of that photograph with me, and when the photographer saw it he filled us in on some background. He had been working there since 1960, and told us that the picture in 1966 had been taken from a different location at Land’s End. Over the last 44 years, the sign itself has been moved on several occasions. He told us where the sign had been in my grandparents photo, and try as we might, we could not find that exact location... No doubt, we may well have stood or walked over the very spot, but the remaining rocks and pathways didn’t match what remains there today.

As the afternoon approached, and after two of the most horrible tourist shop Cornish pasties, it was back onto the bus and the coastline ride to St Ives. The pasties were sh*t, there's no other way to put it, but sitting there in the sun together marvelling at the views made up for it.
Now, back to the bus... with the weather still being superbly sunny, the one thing we didn’t expect was to be cold! It was an open top double-decker bus, and we were atop it and near the front. The afternoon sea-breeze combined with the speed of the bus all added up.
It did afford some amazing views of the coastal villages (left) and farms on our way to St Ives, so we weren’t too fussed, despite being somewhat wind-blown on arrival.
It’s incredible the ages of what the places appear to be, and probably just how old some of them really are. You wonder what it must have been like several hundred years ago, to live here in a time with not even electricity, and your only contact with the outside world being whenever the traders or postal wagons pulled up...

St Ives was a very busy little town, and rightfully so, as it really is a beautiful spot. The harbour/marina in the late afternoon sun, with folks along the boardwalk and on the “beach”, all behind the coastline views made for a pretty special place. We strolling around the entire marina (below) taking in the sights and antics of both locals (gulls included) and (fellow) tourists. With the sun setting, we attempted to have dinner in one of the many restaurants looking out across the bay. Here’s a trap for us newcomers - book. Every restaurant was booked out until 9.30pm or later!!
So, heading off the beaten track, as we usually do, we soon ended up stumbling across an amazing fish cafe that was just brilliant in its set up. The food... well... it was superb. So belly’s full, we headed out into the now street-lamped laneways for a stroll through the township itself picking and choosing which shops and galleries we would return to tomorrow. Eventually, stopping off in a small pub for a few drinks before heading up the hill to the bus stop for the (quicker, more direct) trip back to Penzance... Did I mention the view from up there? A clear starry sky, a large bright moon, the lights all around the marina below and the lights of the villages scattered along the coastline for miles...

Sunday began in a more conventional way with a morning run. With the half marathon only a few weeks away (see Running to the Beat - Again below), we still needed to do a 15km run this weekend. We chose a pretty good way to do it - along the coastal path from Penzance, through Newlyn and also Mousehole (pronounced “Mowsel”). Spectacular views all the way!
It was this run that altered the day’s plan. Originally, we were going to take the direct bus back to St Ives, but instead chose to go and poke around Mousehole instead - and we weren’t disappointed.
Much quieter than St Ives, but just as picturesque with stunning coastal views, this nearly 600 year old village was an amazing little spot to just mosey around. Pretty good cream teas too!
Again, that thought of living in such a remote place all those years ago came up, as we were in the pub and saw a photo on the wall of ships from the 1800’s in the harbour - each with its name and history written below the photo.
We tried the local Cornish ales here, which weren’t too bad, before heading “up the hill” to the other pub, which we were told had better food. This “hill” was quite steep and we continued up it for some time to find ourselves with nothing but trees and fields around us. Eventually, reached the pub at the top of the hill only to discover that we were actually in the next village!
Anyway, the food was excellent, the staff good fun, and the atmosphere far better than the Ship Inn back in Mousehole. A great night before catching the last bus back to Penzance.

Monday was a somewhat slower start to the day, but once out and about it was a bit more exploring through Penzance as we made our way to the train station. Checking in our bags, we then hopped a bus down to nearby Newlyn for the Newlyn Fish Festival.
A perfect sunny day down on the piers with all the various stalls and other sideshows. This was quite a big event, and we really could have spent longer there. You do have to love it when you get a “fresh crab meat sandwich” and you see the guy hammering the crab claws to get the meat for your sandwich - any fresher and it would have been walking onto the bread!
There was so much to see and do there, and we could have spent a few more hours there if it weren’t for a certain train waiting to return us back to not-so-sunny London. After watching the hourly bus pull away while running for it, we hopped a cab for the £5 ride back to the train station in Penzance. This took us past the famous and haunted Dolphin Inn where our cabbie informed us that “something famous had happened” there. Don’t you just love history and these sorts of towns?