Ronde van Vlaanderen: The Ride

The title is in Belgian, and it is the name given to Belgium's biggest bicycle race. The Ronde van Vlaanderen or Tour of Flanders (as it is known to the English speakers of this world) is the race that stops the nation of Belgium. Last year's attendance along this cycling race's 260km course was over 800,000 people, and they're expecting more this year.

Why do I mention this? Well, you may recall my adventure with Paris-Roubaix last year, but this year I was one of those 800,000+ roadside spectators - although I watched the race from several vantage points in much the same way I did at Paris-Roubaix. Also, like I did with Paris-Roubaix, I rode the course of the Ronde van Vlaanderen (RvV). Not all of it (although that is an option), but the last 150km of the course. This is an official event and has an attendance of over 25,000 riders doing one of three options: the full 260km, the last 150km or the last 75km. There are also two options for mountain bikers, that attracts thousands of them as well...

An early start with sunshine and clear skies, saw us parking up the vans at about 7am(ish) a few kilometres from the start, which gave us a nice little warm up ride. As we neared the start "village", there were already dozens of riders going past us that had already started. The start village itself was literally a calm chaos with thousands trying to meet up or sort registrations or, like me, just trying to work out exactly where the actual start line was. I did find it, and so just began.

Despite the few yellow signs that were out to direct us, it was incredibly easy to find your way, because at no point was the road clear of other riders for the entire length of the course. I passed many and was also passed by many. I have a replica jersey of the Australian Champion's jersey the year that Robbie McEwen wore it - I wore it more due to the Belgian sponsor's logos than to be impersonating anyone. However, within the first few kilometres I was questioned by a Belgian as to Robbie. We struck up a conversation and rode the next 20 or 30kms together. I lost him on the first hill that was paved with cobblestones.

London isn't particularly hilly, so my training hasn't included any hills of the steepness of those along the route. Even with this, I was surprised at just how much these "helligen" slowed people up. I did most of my passing going uphill or along the flat sections of cobblestoned roads. It was during these sections that I realised just how much I like riding the cobblestones. Don't ask me why, I just do. It seems insane, but there you go...

Anyway, back to the Belgium roads. There are 13 official "helligen" on the 150km course that are from the actual race itself. Not all are sign posted, nor obvious. When I reached the Paterberg, which was sign posted, I realised that I'd been over the first three official hills without noticing! (It should probably be pointed out that there are plenty of unofficial ups and downs along the course.)

It's hard not to notice the Paterberg (left), one of the most famous (and steep) of these cobbled hills. It only goes for 360 metres, but in that distance you go up 43 metres (an average of 13%) and the steepest part is just over 20%. I tried to ride this, but soon found myself "stuck in traffic", and unfortunately you can only get so far amongst those walking before you have to walk as well. Part way up there were a few gaps among the walkers, so I had a go at getting restarted and managed to thread my way to the top.

Next up was the Koppenberg. This is "number 2" between the Paterberg and the most famous, the Muur-Kapelmuur. It's 600m long and goes up 78m - this may be only an average of 11.6%, but at it's steepest it is over 22% - you may have guessed that none of these hills go up at an even rate. Unfortunately, I encountered the same problem as I did at the Paterberg. The Koppenberg narrows shortly after the start, so the traffic made it impossible to thread your way through. I also managed to remount and ride a good portion towards the top, but only once it widened again. Effectively I'd started and finished both, so I wasn't complaining in not having ridden them completely. Considering that these two hills can give the pro riders problems, I was feeling okay about it.

Onwards through the sunny Belgian countryside I went, leaving many taking breathers at the top of the Koppenberg, or maybe they're just photographing the view(?). Eight more hills to go, including the Muur itself...

I won't go into the details about the hills in between, only to say that the first really steep and challenging hill that I rode completely was the Taaienberg. 15.8% in the early parts before it levels out slightly about two thirds of the way through. I crushed it - yep, I'm going to have a brag and even show the pic on the right! It's funny, that even while on cobblestones going up a steep hill, you can suddenly feel really good and just GO. I did, and damn, you feel good passing others struggling and/or walking up. I love the pic from it too... I realise that it wasn't a race or anything, and going past other weekend riders isn't much, but stuff it, I'm one of those weekenders too.

The Eikenberg, Molenberg, Leberg and Tenbosse went much the same way. I even got a "Go Robbie!" call on one of them from some of the spectators. I actually received a few "Robbie" calls throughout the ride, which was a bit of fun. I was later to find out that the Belgians love Robbie McEwen because he did most of his winning while on the Belgian team, Lotto. But I digress...

Surprisingly there were plenty of spectators out on the course for the ride. Whether just because they'd already set their spots on certain hills or locations in their motorhomes, or whether they had just come out for the day to watch us amateurs trying to conquer the hills, they were giving us all support along the way. It did make it pretty cool to get encouragement from the sidelines. Anyone giving the climbs a red-hot-go usually got a cheer, while others were given support in their efforts too. The Belgians love their cycling and the Ronde van Vlaanderen. They were certainly making a weekend of it in the sunshine. I honestly don't think that there is any event in Australia that captures the population in the way that this does for the Belgians - none. It is truly amazing.

This brings me to the famous Muur-Kapelmuur. It's not as steep as the Paterberg or Koppenberg, but at 19.8% at its steepest it is formidable as it winds its way up from the town centre (of Geraardsbergen) to the little church on top. The cobbled section is only 475m long, but you have quite a bit of uphill riding to do on the paved roads of Geraardsbergen before you reach it.

The Muur, is usually the hill that decides the race itself, which is what brings most of its fame. It's not easy either when you consider that I'd personally ridden over 100kms before getting to it.

Up through the township I went with my legs starting to feel tired well before I reached the proper cobblestones. Thankfully, that second wind emerged as soon as I was on them. Left turn, then right and it was onto the 19.8% section and I was going well - successfully avoiding all the walkers by sticking to the left side of the narrow road. Then it happened - they guy just up ahead stalled and fell, bringing down three other riders almost blocking the whole road! Staying left I had a small gap to go round, but unfortunately, I wasn't the only one with that idea and got cut off. A spectator just up ahead was trying to wave us through, yelling at us in Belgian and motioning for us to go towards him. Then the guy in front of me put his foot down and stopped. I stopped, trying to keep balance and hopefully continue riding forward, but he didn't move. The Belgian man yelled more, but I had to put my foot down too...

Just so disappointing, as I really thought I'd conquer the Muur...

I started walking and once past those on the ground, that same Belgian man stepped off the hillside waving at my bike. I clipped in one leg and as I clipped in my other, he held me upright. Pushing on the pedals, he gave me a shove from behind and I had just done the steepest "hill start" I've ever done. I charged up the rest of the Muur to the sounds of the spectators calling out to all of us riders - the photo at the beginning is me (left) heading for the little church at the top.

I reached the top and pulled over - I had to take a pic of me by the church at the top. It just had to be done. I'll never forget the grey-haired man in the pink shirt and beige trousers on the Muur - Thank you for adding something unique to the experience.

15kms and only one more hill til the finish. As I neared the base of the Bosberg, I ran into (not literally), Daniel Bellon, and his girlfriend, Jo. Daniel did Roubaix with me last year. We stopped for a bit of a catch up, to then be accosted by an elderly local sitting at the side of the road. This man claimed to be Robbie McEwen's neighbour! We were a bit dubious, but played along and soon headed off for the final "hilligen" of the course. Again, I attacked the climb to the top, where I waited for Daniel and Jo. A quick group photo at the top and it was off again towards the finish. Downhill and mostly flat all the way for the final 12kms. During this time, we crossed the finish line of the actual race, so it was pretty cool to go under the big Ronde van Vlaanderen archway. The final few kilometres from here were easily done, and I was surprised at just how good I was feeling. Tired, yes, but not completely drained like I thought I would be after such a long and tough ride.

An amazing experience, even if it was with over 20,000 others, but each will have their own story to tell. This was mine of the day I rode the Ronde van Vlaanderen in Belgium (a-hem... Flanders).