Paris-Roubaix: The Race

A not-so-early start for a change, but we were still on the coach leaving Valenciennes for Compiègne well before 8am for the 100km+ drive to the start of the Paris-Roubaix race. Like last year, we meandered around the outskirts of the start area watching the teams get ready, as well as the teams being presented at the signing on.

Also, just like last year, several teams did not make it into the start compound and were lined up along the same road that we had parked our coach on. A major bonus as we got to mill about the actual riders and crew as they prepared for the day ahead.

Soon we were on our way to the next place to see the race - the first section of cobblestones (see pic at the top). A very chaotic place to be as many others had the same idea as we did. Somehow our coach driver got through the traffic jam and we were lining the sides race course in no time. I headed for the same bend as last year, as it was a great view as well as easy access to return to the coach post haste. Unfortunately, others weren't so good at returning to the coach, and this was to cost us...

Four of us were on this particular elevated corner. We had a good view of the oncoming race and were right by the edge without being too close. The race came through and we had a great view, but it was then a race to the cars and coaches to get moving and be on the road to the next section before the traffic jammed. As mentioned, we had some dawdlers that meant we didn't get away soon enough. The roads to the Forest of Arenberg were already closed when we got to them, and this left our driver and guides in a real bind, as there was no "plan B".

To miss the race coming through Arenberg was a major disappointment. It's such an iconic and incredible place to watch the race come through. At least I'd done it the year before so I wasn't too upset, but I felt gutted for the others. Especially Andrew, a guy who'd come over from Brisbane for the weekend. As fellow Aussies, we'd struck up a bit of a friendship over the past 2 days, and I'm glad we did as it did turn out well for him (as you'll see).

After some hapless driving from the coach driver, getting to Arenberg Forest was abandoned, and we made for the cobbled section at Orchies instead. Arriving a little early did mean we got a good park for the coach and we could get ourselves prime positions. I headed for the same corner as last year (just after the cobbled section finished) while the others all went further up the road to be along the cobblestones. Andrew asked where I thought I was going, so I explained that from this corner you can see the cobbled road. You can see them come down it rather than be on the side of the road and them just fly past you. They also slow for the bend, so you get a good view as they make the turn... He joined me and wasn't disappointed at all. We had some fun with the Gendarmes as I knew where they are happy to let you stand. We were at the limit, so anyone trying to go past or in front of us was shooed away by the Gendarmes. Strangely they'd watch people go there, and then shoo them away instead of stopping them go there in the first place - must be a French thing. Two riders even crashed on the bend right in front of us too, which Andrew enjoyed as neither was hurt and back racing very quickly. Once the team cars started coming through, we headed back to the bus.

On the drive to our final viewing spot, the famous Roubaix velodrome and finish, I was given a wristband to give me access to the VIP area in the velodrome. This was because I had been on the trip all week. They only had a limited number, and Andrew scored one of the other ones simply by sitting next to me. Certainly something to make up for not getting to see the race in Arenberg. So we headed into the VIP area that was right on the edge of the [velodrome] track. We did stop off in the Roubaix clubhouse first to grab a souvenir and a beer from their bar. The VIP area was great - free food and drink and we got to watch the race live on the bigscreen tv's in the double storied "huts". We then headed outside to watch the riders come around the track and finish. Being in that area also meant that we were right alongside the exit for riders when they finished. Most were too knackered to chat, but acknowledged us for congratulating any and all for finishing, including Robbie McEwen (right). To just finish this race is a serious achievement, and we didn't care if it was just the two of us clapping them as they came past with a "well done" or similar comment on their way to the showers.

Soon our time was up and we had to return to the coach for the trip back to the hotel. A group dinner with a bunch of us that had got to know each other over the weekend entailed. A very happy Andrew, myself and two others were still enjoying ourselves when the hotel restaurant/bar closed. You can't say we didn't finish off the day and trip well.

Paris-Roubaix: The Ride

You will (er.. may) recall me riding a good portion of the route of Paris-Roubaix last year. (You can recap that here: http://landsend866.blogspot.com/2010/04/paris-roubaix.html if you like). Well, this year the organisers of the actual Paris-Roubaix race took a leaf out of the book of the organisers of the Ronde van Vlaanderen, and ran an official ride/event on the day preceding the race itself.

Originally, The Paris-Roubaix Challenge was to be a timed sportive on closed roads, cover just over 160kms of the official race course, take in nearly all of the cobblestoned sections and finish in the famous velodrome. I say "originally" because about two weeks before this ride, the organisers announced that they had failed in their negotiations with the local gendarmerie (police) to obtain road closures. To add insult to injury, the event was not going to be able to be finished in the famous velodrome, but as far away as Section 4 of the cobblestone sections. (The sections count down from highest to lowest, with the last section before the finish being "Section 1".)

Not great news, but the whole trip was booked, and now that this one event was now reduced to a social ride (more or less), it was a case of "what the hell, it was cool to ride last year, so really shouldn't be any different this year". Or so I thought...

We received our race packs on the Friday night with our race numbers and other information and goodies. We attached our numbers to our bikes while readying them for the following day's ride. Included in the information were maps of the route we were to take, and here was yet another major disappointment - there was to be no riding through the most famous cobblestoned section, the "Trench" through the Forrest of Arenberg. Nor were we going to be following the race route in its entirety from San Quentin to Carrefour de l'Arbre...

Despite this, our intrepid group were all up, breakfasted and on the bus by 6am for the trip to San Quentin. Arriving at around 7am, we sorted ourselves and bikes out, then joined what remained of the original 4000 riders in the start corrals. We set off at about 7.30am to clear skies, a chilly breeze and the sun rising - hoping it would warm us up. We had time to warm up, as we had to cover about 60kms of rolling French countryside before reaching the first of the 18 Sections that we were to ride...

It was interesting to see the speed that so many started out at. I hung out in a group to gain some shelter from the day's constant headwind. It was quite an effort as the bunch was travelling at around 40kmh. I backed off and let them go - there was plenty of effort needed later on, so why push it now? A relaxed 32kmh would do just fine - I'd ridden what's ahead before and knew what to expect.

During this time, I enjoyed the ride, the villages, the few villagers who clapped or encouraged us from the sides of the roads, and the sunshine in the countryside - and one joker telling everyone that I was Robbie McEwen (yep, I had the Aussie jersey on again). I also sat at the back of some passing bunches for a bit of shelter as they came past, and in this time I noticed a good number of our group go by.

It wasn't too long before that first 60kms where over and the first section of cobblestones arrived. As per usual, I switched up a couple of gears put in the effort needed to ride them. The entire group that had only recently passed me had all slowed down with many heading for the edges of the road. Fine by me, the best place to be is in the middle on the crest. I was actually quite surprised at how many were struggling, and this was the first section of 18!! And it wasn't particularly difficult either.

Sure, it was harder than any of the cobblestones in Belgium and the Ronde, but by Paris-Roubaix standards, it was an easy section, and the fifth shortest (1.7km).

The same occurred at most sections I came to - so many slowed up, which just makes it harder. Heading for the edges means riding in a lot of the roadside debris - it's not much easier as the edges are cobbled too, but a higher risk of puncturing. For me, the clearer that crest near the road's middle, the better.

We rejoined the official race route at about section 15, when we went under one of the official race banners. It's funny how much better the ride suddenly became. I guess, because for most of the morning I was pretty negative. Grumbling in my head about "If I'd wanted to do a scenic ride in France, I could do this anytime..." and "I came here to ride the race course, not tour some hills..." type thoughts. Riding on the actual course, I couldn't help but re-jog memories from the last trip.

One of the really good parts about riding the course itself, is the spectators. Many travel to the course in their motorhomes, whether from Belgium, France, or other parts of Europe or the world. They are usually parked there early and make a weekend of it. If I told you that I passed a guy in a bee suit waving us on while his van blared Boney-M I'm sure you'd think I'm nuts, but I did. Others were roadside on their deckchairs clapping, cheering or just drinking beer and watching. A lot with the Lion of Flanders flags flying. There was one trio of folk with large French and Française des Jeux (FDJ) flags on their motorhomes. I waved my FDJ bottle** to them and called out "F. des Jeux!". I got a huge cheer and some comment about Paris, but my French is rubbish, so I have no idea what was actually called out.

While fun, this turned out to be a mistake. I was on the cobbles at the time, and while riding with one hand of the bars was tricky, I hadn't counted on how tricky puting my bottle back would be! Further up the road and back on the tarmac, I went to take a drink from my bottle that was no longer there - oops!!

At around the 110km mark, I came across the second "feed station". This one was mandatory for our group to stop at, as our guides were there to tick names off and keep track of our group members. At that point, only a few others had come through, which meant that I had overtaken plenty of our group. Easily done on the cobbles, as you are quite busy watching ahead to pick the best line to take, and I wasn't paying much attention as to who the other riders were.

Now, you may recall from the last time I did the Roubaix course, Phil and I stopped off by some Belgians that gave us some food and topped up our bottles. Well, they were there again, and this time with waffles!! Filled with a berries and jam - it hit the spot like you wouldn't believe! I was so over energy bars at that point (around 120+kms). Their little table was quite a popular spot too!

Back to the ride... I was feeling better after the waffle, but the constant headwind and just general fatigue were wearing me down. Considering that this was the last 30kms of a week that had seen me ride over 425kms this isn't surprising. The final section, Carrefour de l'Arbre, is one of the toughest. I personally rate it as harder than the Forrest of Arenberg. It's over 2km long and the cobbles are a mess. There are times when you struggle to find anything resembling a crest in the road to follow. Still, I didn't come all this way to hide on the edges and not ride it. It was one last effort and then I could rest for as long as I wanted. Or so I thought...

Crossing the finish line and reaching the famous restaurant, de l'Arbre, was great. I was done. Tired, battered, dusty, thirsty and a mix of relief and joy. Time to find the bus and rest. Only I discovered that our bus wasn't there. It was 4km further down the road in the nearby Finish Village! Oh well, at least it's all on tarmac...

Last year it was Me 1, Roubaix nil. This year, I'd say it was pretty much a draw, although it took me over an hour less to do the course with 30 more kilometres. Still a fantastic experience.

And to answer a common question: "Which is harder, the Ronde or Roubaix?"

Both are cobbled, one has steep hills, the other is flat - but don't let that fool you. The cobblestones of Roubaix are much tougher. The sections are far longer, with anything up to 3kms in length, while the neater cobbles of the Ronde are lucky if they last for 1km. The other difference is that while the Ronde has short steep hills, you get to recover on the downside. Roubaix is flat, so you're always working - there's no respite, you just have to keep going. Therefore, my answer is "Roubaix", and strangely it's the one I prefer to do, and given the chance, would do again...

Spring Classics Week

I've covered the Ronde van Vlaanderen and the Scheldeprijs, so this is filling the rest of the week's jaunt through Belgium and Northern France...

On the Monday, one of our guides, Roy, and I set out from Gent on our bikes to ride to Oudenaarde. As this was a reasonably early morning start, when we crossed a bridge that overlooked a large motel, we noticed something that caught our eye - team trucks and buses. We had discovered the location of three of the French teams, Cofidis, AG2R and Française De Jeux (right). Two trucks were open and had mechanics and riders milling about with bikes - gearing up for an early morning "spin" or recovery ride after the Ronde. We pulled into the carpark and said "bonjour". In this situation, most riders won't mind you joining them in their morning ride - you just need to keep up, because they won't wait. While they chatted briefly to us, they weren't too interested in us coming along, although the FDJ soigneur gave us some of their water bottles as souvenirs.

Anyway, off we headed, along a path that put us next to the large canal that runs from Gent to Oudenaarde. We rode along this quite wide bitumen path all the way to Oudenaarde, passing several locks, and just enjoying the scenery and all the river traffic. The sun did attempt to break through the clouds and did succeed a little later on. After about 45kms we reached our destination. Three calls later we managed to find Jimmy and the van. He was parked by the café that is part of the Museum of the Ronde van Vlaanderen. The café is owned and run by Freddy Maertens, one of Belgium's most famous and successful riders back in the 70's and 80's. A friendly guy, as he was happy to chat while we had coffee there. We explored the museum, which was a bit of a loss as it was all written in Belgian, but it was still interesting.

From here, the bikes went into the van (and stayed there til after Scheldeprijs (so now you know)), and we drove on to see a ladies pro race. When we got there, we discovered that we were going to have nearly two hours to wait til they returned to the finish. Then, during a coffee at a nearby café, Jimmy got a call from his "son in law", Ian Stannard, who is on the Sky professional team. We had a choice to make - wait for the ladies race or go visit Team Sky. We hopped in the van and off we went.

On the way we came across the Saxo Bank team truck with the mechanics washing and servicing all the team's bikes. We pulled over for a look and a chat. Soon we made our way to the hotel where the Sky team were staying. We met both Ian and Jeremy Hunt, before getting to have a look about on the team bus - a very impressive set up inside!

That evening we dined in a restaurant in a large square in Gent before heading to a small but very quirky Belgian bar/pub. All sorts of historical paraphernalia adorned the place, with some incredible wood carvings making up the actual bar itself. A massive range of beers were on offer too, including being able to have a yard glass of one beer. I suspect that it was only half a yard glass, but you know the style. Anyway, if you bought one, you had to surrender a shoe. This went into a little basket that was hoisted to the ceiling. You got it back when you finished your beer. A bell on the basket alerted all in the bar that someone had either bought or finished one of these beers, and this was usually followed by a cheer. We tried many beers, but never the "shoe beer".

Tuesday was a bit of a grizzly day and was to be the only day we saw any rain. We spent it in Roeselare at the Wielermuseum - Belgium's museum of cycling. This was far more interesting than the Flanders museum the day before, as it covered all cycling in Belgium and not just one event. Some of the early bikes and the development into what we have today was quite fascinating. I couldn't imagine using some of the old bikes to ride some of the places that they did. Having a go on a penny farthing was also some fun.

Wednesday was Scheldeprijs, which you'll have read about previously, although that night Allen (the other guy on the tour) and I spent some time on the banks of one of the canals running through Gent. Very pleasant evening sitting amongst the old buildings and crowds on the banks drinking Belgian beers as the sun set (below). We followed it up with a very late (but very good) dinner in a nearby restaurant.

Thursday was the day of transit to Valenciennes in France to shift our focus to Roubaix. Jimmy and I rode there from Gent. All 97kms of it through the Belgian countryside in the sun. A good ride, and Jimmy set quite a pace. Once we'd arrived it was time to meet the others that we were joining for the Roubaix part of the week and just relax for the evening.

Friday saw us ride out to the Forest of Arenberg and the cobbled section of the race that runs straight through the forest. The ride through Valenciennes was quite comical as Jimmy, who was leading us all wasn't too sure of the way. I was asked to move to the front of our small bunch and when I got to the front Jimmy asked me the way (because I'd been here the year before). I told him the exact route we'd taken last year, only that was from a different hotel in a different part of town... We eventually found our way with the others none the wiser that we were pretty much guessing as we went - they thought we were just chatting and having a few laughs.

Once there we hit the cobbles of "the Trench" of Arenberg. It is one of the toughest sections and dead straight for nearly 2kms through the forest. It was quite interesting once we were through to see and hear the other's reactions - their first time on the cobbles and their first experience of Arenberg. You can see the state of the cobbles in the pic here (you may need to click on it to see a larger version) - they're not particularly friendly.

Anyway, I headed back towards the start to have another go - don't ask, I just like riding these sections. There's nothing like it anywhere in the world and it will be some time before I'm back in Wallers-Arenberg to ride them again. One advantage of having done this was encountering five members of the Rabobank pro team. I followed them to the end of the forest in the hope of joining them for a longer ride. Unfortunately, they pulled over at the team car and packed up. Oh well, I've ridden Arenberg with Rabobank, which is more than I could say before.

I headed back to the hotel at Valenciennes and the outdoor restaurant there to have a late lunch and a few beers - just relaxing for the afternoon. I was joined periodically during the afternoon and evening by several members of the group. A good way to spend the evening before doing the Paris-Roubaix Challenge...

99th Scheldeprijs

Again, another Belgian cycling race, and one that's held in the middle of the week.

Under blue sunny skies, we headed out from Gent for Antwerp for the start. Along the way we found ourselves alongside the LeOpard-Trek team coach and cars. Our guide, Jimmy, wasn't entirely sure of the way to the start, (nor an adept with a GPS), so we took to just following the team. This had a dual benefit that we didn't expect. The obvious of going directly to the race start, and the second was getting waved on into the start area with all the team coaches and cars. We still had two bikes in the back of the van**, so we guessed that because we were behind team cars with bikes on board the gendarme thought of us as part of the crew.

We proceeded to wander the start zone amongst all the team buses, crew and riders. Kinda like being in the change rooms with football teams before a big league match. It did all seem quite casual, yet you could still sense the intensity of the riders and soigneurs as they prepared for the day's Semi-Classic [race].

A small stroll through the main street took us to a town square where the riders were presented before the start. Quite a popular event this, and just how many folks were there on a Wednesday was rather interesting. Can't say I've seen anything like it for a weekday.

Once underway, we left the race to do it's 200kms, and made our way to the finish area - again with a small share of navigational challenges. Yet another gendarme assisted us, and we made our way to where the finish was. The race itself heads out for a large loop into the Belgian countryside before returning for three short loops (or laps) of part of the city, and passing us spectators three times before the final sprint finish.

As you can see, there were plenty of folks out enjoying the midweek sunshine at this event. We had a good wander about the course taking it all in. I also experienced 'curry ketchup' when I got a hamburger from one of the burger vans about the place - it's interesting. Anyway, we watched the amateur race do it's finishing laps, and they weren't slow.

We found a good position about 300metres from the finish line and settled in to watch. Most of the main contenders for both last weekend's Ronde van Vlaanderen and next Sunday's Paris-Roubaix were riding. They finished well back in the bunch and were most likely just out for training than racing, but that didn't stop the sprinters and lesser team members having a proper go.

Most sprints open up in the last few hundred metres, at which time the peloton is really flying as the teams all try to get their sprinter in the best position to win. Unfortunately,( or fortunately depending on what you like to see), there was a crash about 200m from the finish, which meant that the final result was made easier for the two riders that were in front of the crash and didn't have to swerve to miss it.

Disappointing that the final sprint wasn't head to head for the top guys, but then that's racing I guess, anything can happen. Just like fluking your way into the start area.

All up, a fun and casual day out in the sunshine in Antwerp to watch a bike race.

** See the "Spring Classics Week" post for why the bikes were in the van

Ronde van Vlaanderen: The Race

As mentioned in "The Ride" (below), this is the biggest event on the Belgian calendar. It was time to experience what I'd only ever seen on TV (as if riding it yesterday wasn't experience enough!).

Thankfully, we had a leisurely start to the day, as our guides said that we would skip the race start in Brugges. Apparently, this is absolute chaos in the town square and you really don't get to see much unless you're in amongst all the VIPs. This was confirmed for me later that night when I caught up with Daniel and Jo - their group went to the start and he stated that is was bedlam and not worth doing. It was an enjoyable sleep-in (til 7.30am anyway).

We made our way through the Belgian countryside to our first destination, and this is where a little bit of local knowledge goes a long way. We pulled up in quiet lane, with a rather lonely looking old pub. In we went for the first beer of the day. This is the Belgian way to see the Ronde, so we were told...

Soon we headed back out onto the lane way to walk down another lane that came out at the top of the hill/climb known as the Oude Kwaremont. There were two campervans parked here and amongst the spectators already gathered, the beers were flowing.

Leaving Brugges about an hour before the main race starts is the women's version of the Ronde van Vlaanderen, and this is what we watched come through. They were flying too! Much faster than anyone I saw the day before. Once through, we headed back to that same pub, which had had a small population explosion and was now quite packed. Another beer and we watched the main race unfolding on the tv's in the pub. When the riders reached a certain part of the race, our guides shepherded us outside and down yet another laneway.

It didn't take long to discover that we were actually at the top of another hill known as the Knokteberg. (Don't you love the names!) From here we were to watch the main race come through. They then turned right, then turned left past the pub, and down to the village of Oude Kwaremont before coming up the 1.2kms of cobblestoned hill known as the Oude Kwaremont. We on the other hand had to leg it back towards the pub, past it, and down the laneway where we'd just been to see the ladies race. We made it with little time to spare...

Back to the van after the riders were through, and onwards towards the next section. Not quick enough though, as we got caught in the traffic jam that ensued. Yep, we weren't the only ones with the idea of driving on to another section of the race.

The traffic snarl eventually eased and we were off at something I'm sure was a little above the speed limit. Winding our way through the country lanes and roads of Flanders saw us eventually arrive at Geraardsbergen, the township that contains the Muur-Kapelmuur. Unfortunately, with the way that the course of the race winds its way through Flanders it means that the famous climbs are all quite close together. That is, they're not far enough apart to be able to see the race go by, then move onto another one that's nearby when you add the logistics of traffic and thousands of others wanting to do the same. This is why we found ourselves at the Muur so early. This was a good thing too as you did need some time to get around on it as well as take it all in.

We were parked near the bottom of the township where the course begins to head upwards. Many people were already lining the streets, as well as all the pubs, cafés and hospitality tents obviously making quite a day out of it.

On the way up towards the actual cobbled section that is The Muur, you pass by two town squares, and both were sprawling with people. The higher you went, the more people there were, and the atmosphere was carnival-like. All waiting to see which riders were in the lead and who would be first over the top. Now, I don't want any aspersions cast, but I did manage to find a spot up near the top, that just happened to be right next to a beer tent...

Thankfully, the locals against the barrier just in front of me, could speak English and happily gave me updates on the race from the mobile phone they were listening to. Needless to say, we had a merry old time up there alongside a cobbled street just below a church (see the pic at the very top of this thread. You just have to love the Belgians!

We heard the roar long before we saw the riders, and when they came through, the place erupted. It was expected that last year's winner (the Swiss rider, Fabian Cancellara) would be by himself, but wasn't, so the race was well and truly on. The fact that he was shadowed closely by a member of a Belgian team (Sylvain Chavanel), as well as a Belgian rider (Phillippe Gilbert) being only a few metres back in third, meant that the Belgians were ecstatic. We watched and cheered many of the leading riders, and many spectators stayed to see more of them as they came through in the small chase groups.

I, like many others, was off after about the first thirty were past. Straight back to the higher of the two town squares - the one with the big screen that was showing the live broadcast of the race. Riders were still coming up as we headed down, and I joined thousands of spectators in that square to watch the final 20kms. Just a little odd that the course was going straight through the middle of this square (you can see the archway in the pic below). It meant that while we were watching the leaders on the big screen, the main bunch and any others that were off the pace, would ride through the middle of us.

An amazing finish too, as the Belgian, Gilbert (pronounced "Jhill-bear") attacked on the final helligen (the Bosberg) to take the lead, so you can imagine the crowd's reaction. He was caught a little later with several kilometres to go by a small group. It then kicked off again about 3kms from the finish when Cancellara went for it. Two riders went with him, but the others couldn't. The aforementioned Chavanel, and yet another Belgian, Nick Nuyens.

The three were together with about 500metres to go, and the others behind gaining quickly on them. Again, Cancellara went for it, and again, the other two chased hard behind him. They succeeded in passing him just before the line with Nuyens crossing the line first to send the Belgians in the crowds completely mental.

It was party time in the streets of Geraardsbergen, as well as nearly all of Belgium, but unfortunately we only got to experience a small portion of this as we had a van and guide to return to. Back in Gent that evening I caught up with Dan and Jo for dinner and a few Belgian beers to finish off what had been an incredible two days.