Ah, Paris... (pt.2)

After strolling home from the previous night’s amazing experience (see pt.1), Saturday began as a Saturday should - slowly and relaxed.
Around mid morning, and after a successful experiment with the espresso machine in the apartment, we headed out through the Marais in search of somewhere for breakfast...erm... brunch.
Louis had suggested that the restaurant, Georges, atop the Pompidou Centre, would be superb for its views (rather than its food), so we headed in that general direction with an eye to either lunching there or booking for dinner.
While looking around the base of the Pompidou (for its entrance) amongst the crowds, our hunger took over and we decided to look for a place to eat first. This lead us through the nearby region of Les Halles and around the many shop-filled streets to eventually find somewhere to eat.
We continued upon our way to end up at the nearby Hôtel De Ville, where we discovered the large ice rink that now fills the square in front of this famous building. It’s not actually a hotel, but (effectively) a massive council chamber/public office. Anyway, after watching the double-storey carousel that was in one corner of this famous square, we moseyed over to the edge of the ice rink to watch. Did we go skating? No. While it would have been fun, both of us agreed that we’d go over on the ice at least more than once and considering the day was about 2C, it would have been rather uncomfortable in wet jeans. This was confirmed for us shortly afterwards as we watched a few mishaps out on the ice (or should I say “ice-capades”... sorry) and how wet several people had become!
Instead we decided to attempt to recreate Richard Doisneau’s famous photograph, “The Kiss”. Unable to locate the original cafe that he took it from (with the Hotel De Ville in the background), we made do... With the temperature and daylight in decline, we headed underground into the (slightly) warmer Metro system to make our way north.

Once we were through with the ticket machine, our train rides through the Metro had us coming back to the streets of Paris in Montmartre. From here, we made our way through the amazing little lanes of this area to the steps that led to the Place du Tertre, which you’ll recognise from my previous trip to Paris. Winter here meant that those cafés that were in the middle of this square were gone, as were many of the artists that encircled them. Still, the trees were filled with lights making for quite a different picture now that the sun had just set.
We passed through here and headed round to the front of the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur (left). Last time I was here I spent time on the steps with the buskers. This time there were no buskers or crowds upon the steps, despite there being many tourists about. We headed into the basilica where many were keeping warm. During our wander through this rather large and impressive ‘church’, the choir of nuns struck up a hymn as part of the service that was taking place. The acoustics were very good, as were the nuns with their harmonies, to give our little tour of the basilica quite a nice touch.
Once back outside, we made our way through the nearby lanes and poked through the various shops as we headed in the general direction of Place du Tertre. On the way we stopped in a small cafe for a drink, which turned into dinner. With two folks down the other end of the cafe playing live music, it was a great setting for a warm evening meal. I can recommend the escargot - especially as I have now got the hang of how to use the little tongs.
Eventually, we left and made our way back out into the cold, down the steps and onto boulevard de Clichy. This is where the train station was (and still is), but we decided to take a stroll along this lively boulevard with a peek at the Moulin Rouge all lit up.
It was then back on the Metro for the not-so-direct trip back to our apartment...

Sunday, and after yet another successful go with the espresso machine, we headed south through the Marais to another recommendation from our apartment’s visitors book - L’Apartment. Near to the Museé Picasso, this cafe had the added bonus of board games, and a rather unique breakfast menu/ordering method. Three columns on your menu and with your pencil, you tick the boxes of what you wish to fill your plate with as well as other items like bread/croissant/juices/etc... The food, like everywhere else we’d been, was excellent.
So, with our hunger pangs dowsed, we began the walk along the Rue de Rivoli towards the Louvre. A spot of rain - no bother, as we hopped a cab for the €6 trip to the Louvre’s surrounding gardens. It did not take us long before we were through the queue (and bag check) to be strolling along the hallways and rooms of the Louvre. No DaVinci Code pilgrimage here - we’ve both been before and took delight in perusing the arts on display and showing each other our favourites as well as discovering new things. A brief coffee stop on the second floor and we continued our way through the wings of this amazing “gallery” until we were hustled out at closing time. Truly a great way to spend the afternoon while it is raining outside.
Along the damp pavements we strolled, to make our way back to the Marais and our apartment, for a quick change before heading out to another venue recommended by one of our new friends from the Au Vieux Paris restaurant.
This time, we were on the edge of the Place des Vosges, and we nearly made what could have been a mistake. We were told that the restaurant was on the corner of the square, and as we entered the short lane that led to the square, we came across a small diner styled restaurant with the classic French quartet playing live music - complete with double bass and clarinet. It looked quite inviting from the outside. Before heading in, we strolled just a little further along the lane to discover what Louis had been talking about, Ma Bourgogne (right). He was right about the place and its food. We did have a short wait for a table, but this was taken up under the heaters on a table outside under the archways with a drink and a chat with some other locals waiting to be seated.
Inside was cosy, and almost “homely” as well. We were literally dining with an elderly couple, our tables were so close. It made for a good night as well as some fun with the owner when we attempted to have our picture taken.
To round out the evening, we strolled down towards the Rue Vielle du Temple to a tiny bar called Au Petit fer a Cheval, or The Little Horseshoe Bar. A very unique little place that even rates a mention in the Rough Guide and is even pictured! Once settled here, we tried a few cognacs before eventually heading back to our apartment.

Monday morning was a cruisey start with the espresso machine in action once again as I made a couple of omelettes for breakfast, before we made our way back to Gare du Nord train station. We left our bags in the storage facility and then made our way down to St Germain and the Odeon.
The remainder of the morning was spent poking about the streets of this area, and after a brief return to Ladureé, we stopped in the Café d’Paris for a bit of a decadent lunch.
The remainder of the afternoon was then spent strolling across St Germain and into the Jardin du Luxembourg, which while cold, was still quite beautiful. It may sound a bit nerdy, but we did check out what appeared to be a chess competition of some sort in the park. Classically European, although we didn’t see anyone playing boulés... Still, there are some amazing statues and monuments in this massive garden.
With the sun setting, we headed back to Gare du Nord station to collect our bags and hop the train back to London...